english language church in a franciscan monastery, with an unlikely representation of people and an anglican service with no priest (nstead, the head of World Vision in the area shared her thoughts on the various readings). ah, Tokyo Union Church, i would know you anywhere. we all went for coffee afterwards. talked with (listened to) the guy working at the US embassy here. former military. apparently, with the hurricane katrina damage, he's getting inquiries from people here about how they can assist victims; i am encouraged, but not really surprised: individuals tend to be sympathetic, generous, and humane to the point of humanitarian gestures. perhaps ironically, being able (despite the staggering unemployment and slow push towards back-on-feet getting that is in the process here) to offer assistance to the US and its people might be a help to bosnians, whose streets everywhere bear the gold placards of relief agencies where those of industry have crumbled.

after that gathering, started walking—and ended up hiking through hills of Sarajevo without really leaving the residential area. these narrow streets that essentially climb straight up are astounding, as are the houses that line them: the roof could be at roof-level on one side, and street-level at the back, just because of the incline. my calves will be strong. oh, wait (sigh)—Beograd is rather flat (i think the Eastern Europe Lonely Planet that i finally caved and bought in Vienna, where i got a fairly and surprisingly good deal, calls it "lumpy;" this will be showing up soon in an endearment near you). i'm enjoying the elevation now. ran into some kids who were completely confused about my origins; i always take it as a minor consolation that although people obviously know i am gai-jin, they *don't* immediately know from which foreign clime. we swapped information about our respective families and then i left them, cracking up, and kept onwards/upwards. reached the grove of trees ontop of this crest that has looked pretty far and high from down here in the city. it actually borders another Islamic cemetery. instead of returning the way i'd ascended, went over the hill and wove my way down the other side. got off the main road and ended up on this footpath, still passing houses and getting inquisitive glances. made it down to the valley behind that hill and then walked around the base until i reached Stari Grad, where i went into Gazi-Hrusrev-BeG mosque. i'm glad i had to open my box, because i had access to the one scarf i'd brought; the mixture of beauty and humility that i sense while i'm wearing the gauzy maroon veil is incredible. stayed inside the mosque for a long while. "breathtaking" is the best synonym for "holy" that springs to mind.

amela just rang; we leave tomorrow at 7am. i should transfer my belongings and clean this yellow-walled apartment. home, i'll be there soon!